The journal
Notes from the road
No listicles, no 'hidden gems'. Timing, trains, food and light — the things that actually change a journey.
14 July 2026 · 5 min read
The Registan after the buses leave
The world's most photographed square keeps its real self for the last hour of light. Notes on timing Samarkand.
10 July 2026 · 7 min read
First time in Uzbekistan: what actually matters
Visas are easy now, the trains are excellent, and the plov is a schedule. Ten practical truths for a first journey.